Friday, May 18, 2012

Family Life in Arabia






The girls, Melina and Nadia, were just 7 years and three months old, respectively, when they joined me n Dhahran in 1982. I made a special trip to Colombo to collect Shirani and the kids and return, via Karachi, in Pakistan where their visas were issued. We had the wonderful opportunity of staying with Shirani's paternal uncle Dhahlan Ibrahim, Aunty Honeya, and family in Karachi in the PECHS area. Their hospitality was unprecedented. May they both be blessed.

Setting up house in AlKhobar was an interesting experience before the family joined me. A Pathan carpenter named Ghulam Rasool, who worked for one of Al Gosaibi's subsidiary furnshing companies called Reyash, turned out the furniture by hand according to my specifications. He was a wonderful man, all smiles and cooperation, all of the time. carpets and fittings and utensils, in addition to Air conditioning and other household stuff took some effort to mobilize and put in place. Everything was done in good time and the family settled in well in AlKhobar town in the Al Shawan building.

We had some extremely friendly neighbors in Saika and family, a nurse from Kerala working with AlFakhry Hospital in Khobar, Careem and his family from Egypt and most of all the Maimany's, who were of extreme help to us in settling down.

Melina started her schooling career at the Dhahran Academy, the best school in town, run according to the American Education system. Nadia, initially, attended Mrs Rose's Wise Owls School and then went on to join the British School in Riyadh once we moved there in 1985.

Visits to the beach on the Arabian Gulf was a very much liked activity by the kids. We also had Nazeer Rasheed, Reza Ashroff (Bawa), Fiaz Hameed, Dr. Ziaudeen Abdul Cader, and a few other Sri Lankan families who joined us on social gatherings and events.

The Dhahran Video Library was a very frequently patronized place where the latest movies and music from the USA was available for all SAMBA employees. Saudi Aramco Channel 3 was also another favorite of the Kids with Sesame Street, Cosby Kids, Muppet Show and many other forms of music and entertainment on through the evenings.

In 1985, we were compelled to move to Riyadh in order to join the local team of system designers and developers at the new SAMBA Technology Unit office in Malaz. This was a huge change from Dhahran and the EP. Riyadh was a totally different city.

Our home in Sulaimaniya is set up by a youthful band of young Sri Lankan Travel workers at Transad Travel, Riaz, Fazal, Chris, Terence and Iqbal Hassan of DHL. The young men were of immense service during the move and settling down process. TransAd Travel was located right next door to where we lived.

The girls settled down at the American and British Schools respectively.

Shirani starts working with Ms Inge Hall, a German educator, at her school training young kids at KG and Pre School levels.

The Sri Lankan Embassy in Riyadh, headed by Ambassador ALM Hasheem engage in many social activities and events that we are able to support and participate in and enjoy the company of other Sri Lankan expats and families.

SAMBA Technology takes in more staff to build up a large local IT support center.

In 1988, we decide to relocate the girls back in Colombo due to the non availability of English High School education for girls in Riyadh. I move to Citibank Colombo as Head of IT and the girls attend Stafford International School in Colombo.

We return back to Riyadh in 1992 to work for SAMBA technology once again, after I complete one year in Colombo with Citibank and another 2 years with the Ministry of Defence in Seeb, Muscat, Sultanate of Oman.

This time we move into Al-Rajhi Compound in Sulaimaniya since many SAMBA employees and their families were also living there. Anup Kumar Das, Sivakumar, and Shafi Qureshi, to name a few.

The girls return to the British School in Riyadh and then, later join Manarat Al Riyadh International School to continue their education. 

Perkin-Elmer





SAMBA, at the time, was using the legacy Concurrent Computer Systems Perkin-Elmer 3220 Mainframe Computer Systems that was unique to the Middle East North Africa (MENA) region. Senior Management was mostly Pakistani who were seconded from Citibank in Pakistan. The Mafia was a tough one to break through and stay safe from for most of us non Pakistani's. We still survived.

The Data Center in the eastern region was managed by an Indonesian guy called Dharjanto (Yanto) Effendi supported by a Pakistani, Khalid Mukthar. Other staff included Salim Ghauri from Pakistan, Herbert Peters from India (Kerala), Saleem (Librarian) from India and a Tanzanian chap, Abdullah Awadh. Communications and Networking were supported by two Filipino technicians, Abelardo Atienza and Tony Magallanes, supervised by a Pakistani, Tahir Khalil. An indian born Brit Engineer, Danny Singh, from Perkin-Elmer, UK, was also present for all branch network installations and data  center maintenance. His role was later taken over by a local systems engineer, Fawaz Faghira, who later went on to work for banking operations.

The team worked round the clock to ensure the database was installed and tested and the system was stable every single day. Software, that was developed by Citibank MENA IT Center in Athens, was supported by a team of Greeks from Athens. Later on, in 1984, SAMBA created its own IT Development and Support Center in Riyadh, where many of the Greek guys from Athens joined to form the local support team. I moved to Riyadh in July 1985.

Application software was written in Assembler and PE-COBOL and ran on a PE-OS32 platform. While PE-BASIC was never used on the Production systems. Three data centers were, initially, implemented for the three regions. Later on, they were all merged into a single database located in Riyadh, serving all the end users in Kingdom and across the globe.


Dhahran



Dhahran was, in 1979, and still is, the oil capital of the world. It is the city, on the eastern coast of Saudi Arabia bordering the Arabian Gulf (Iran still refers to it as the Persian Gulf), which housed ARAMCO, the Arab American Oil Company run by STANDARD OIL, CHEVRON, TEXACO, and the rest of the oil diggers from the USA. The very first well that spewed out oil was called Well #7 and dug in Dhahran and still stands to this day.


The first six oil wells that wildcatters drilled in Saudi Arabia were nothing to write home about—and then came No. 7. The first six wells dug had no oil in them at all.
Pages of the January 1963 Saudi Aramco World publication wrote, 
"First come the geologists. They travel light and move on quickly over unexplored ground, searching for exposed clues that may lead to hidden oil deposits. Next come the wildcatters who drill the first well in an area where no oil has yet been discovered. They need a bunk-house and a cook, the seed and root of a camp. If luck is with them and their drill brings a show of oil deep in the earth, a fixed camp will begin to take shape around their rig. The camp will serve a complex venture—the development of an oil field. One day a family cottage appears; wives arrive and civilization walks into the wildcatters' bunkhouse world. A community is born.
This simplified succession of events is one of the distinguishing patterns of twentieth-century life. Allowing for local variations, it is a pattern that can be traced where-ever on the globe men have gone in the great hunt for new oil fields. Swamp and jungle, mountain and plain, coastal waters and blistering deserts have witnessed the silent passage of geologists on reconnaissance, the anxious days and nights of wildcat drilling, and the slow emergence of supply yards, roads and homes. And many times, these distant oil frontiers have seen the wildcatters pack up and leave, the cookstove cool, and the bunkhouse grow silent when the drill bit failed to discover oil, or at least enough oil to merit commercial development.
In the middle 1930's the pattern was vividly acted out in the desert of eastern Saudi Arabia a few thousand yards from the Persian Gulf. There American wildcatters drilled six wells and were nearly withdrawn from what appeared to be a costly failure before their historic well—Dammam No. 7—struck oil in commercial volume.
The story begins in the spring of 1933 in Jiddah, an old and storied city on the Red Sea. There, representatives of the Standard Oil Company of California and the government of King Abd al-Aziz Al Sa'ud signed an oil concession agreement. No one really knew whether there was oil in Saudi Arabia. The American oilmen were anxious to have a look. By the time the 1933 football season was under way back home, two Socal geologists began to explore the concession area, a desert larger than the state of Texas. (In November the concession was assigned to the California Arabian Standard Oil Company. On January 31, 1944, the company name was changed to the Arabian American Oil Company—Aramco.)
The team of geologists was soon joined by others, until the pioneer team had grown to ten men. By early June 1934, the geologists finished the detail work on a geological structure they had named the Dammam Dome and thus completed their first field season in Saudi Arabia. In a preliminary report to the home office in San Francisco, they recommended that drilling be started. The company confirmed the recommendation, and the wheels were set in motion to assign men and equipment to wildcat halfway around the world.
In late September the Bedouin folk, following the astral calendar, began to break up their summer encampments. The season had changed, and the time for nomadic wandering and distant grazing had come. Within a month the oilmen had started their second season of desert exploration, taking up the vast chore where they had left off before the oven heat of summer had forced a recess.
In January the King was officially told of the company's plans to go ahead and drill. The world was deep in the great depression, and it was good news indeed that the oilmen were making progress.
The wildcatters had already started to arrive in the Dammam Dome area where the first well, in drilling lingo, was to be "spudded in." Tents were set up temporarily on a broad terrace near a group of limestone outcroppings. A pier was started down by the shore at al-Khobar, a fishing village. In January 1935, while the geologists were out on the desert reaches continuing their surface explorations, the construction crew was digging a cellar for the first drilling rig.
Most of the pioneer group were experienced in the conditions of wildcatting far away from well-stocked oil field supply centers. They knew how to improvise. Lacking dynamite, they broke up the rock for the derrick cellar by heating the rock with a wood fire and then flooding it with cold water.
By February 19th the cellar was completed, and by mid-April the derrick was up and being rigged. On April 30th the wildcatters spudded in Dammam No. 1, the first oil well in Saudi Arabia.
The hole was first drilled by the cable tool method, a slow process that was at that time being replaced by the modern rotary rig system. Three crews worked around the clock to "make hole" as fast as possible. Arab crews who had to be trained on the job assisted the American drillers, the wildcatters who had been on exploratory rigs in Venezuela, Ecuador and China. The drillers were gifted roamers who liked to discover oil and then move on.
In San Francisco an anxious group of men eagerly awaited progress reports from the pioneer well. Theirs had been the executive decision to risk the money for the Saudi Arabian wildcat. The shadow of the lengthening depression fell ominously across the venture.
From the wellsite in Saudi Arabia a succession of cables was sent to San Francisco. May 7, 1935: drilling in hard limestone at 260 feet. May 14: water at 312 feet; some show of tar at 385; now down to 496 feet.
In July the hole reached 1,433 feet, and on August 25th the daily cable reported slight showings of gas and oil at 1,774 feet. "Not important, but encouraging," the cabled message read.
Five days later the well had reached 1,886 feet with showings of gas and oil at several levels along the way. "Flowing by heads [surges] ... possibly would make 50 bbls. per day," the August 30th cable said.
On September 6th the depth was 1,959 feet. The cable for that day advised San Francisco that the time had come to stop drilling and make a flow test.
The result was nothing to write home about, let alone cable. On September 12th the cable reported the results of a 21-hour test: the well flowed 98 barrels of oil. "Preparing to drill deeper," the cable hopefully added.
Six days later the anxious men in San Francisco were at first overjoyed by a report that at 1,977 feet the well had flowed by heads approximately 6,537 barrels per day. But knowing the vulnerability of international wireless to sunspots, and human fallibility, they sent a cautious cable back to the oilmen in the Persian Gulf: "These figures may need checking...."
Indeed they did. Another cable from Saudi Arabia set the matter straight. The estimated flow was actually about 100 barrels a day. Not good enough to be considered worthy of commercial production.
The year wore on and the hole deepened. 1935 gave way to 1936. On the fourth day of the new year work was stopped at Dammam No. 1, and the construction men started rigging up for a second well—Dammam No. 2. The pioneer well had not been abandoned, but to go deeper a rotary rig had to be brought over from Bahrain Island, which is visible from the Saudi Arabian mainland.
In early February, Dammam No. 2 was spudded in. The original enthusiasm that filled the air in early 1935 had been dampened. Oil had been discovered, but the problem was to find it in commercial volume. By mid-May the second hole (which was now being drilled with the rotary rig) was progressing very well. It was already down to 2,175 feet and had made encouraging showings. Hopes rose again.
Optimism was greatly heightened on June 20th when, during a five-day test, Dammam No. 2 flowed an average of 335 barrels of crude oil a day. A week later production during the test jumped to the equivalent of 3,840 barrels a day. This seemed to be it.
The San Francisco office in anticipation had already decided to drill another wildcat elsewhere in the desert and to expand the drilling program at Dammam. Wells 3, 4, and 5 atop the Dammam Dome were authorized. Before July had ended the company had also decided to drill a deep-test well—Dammam No. 7. It was to probe the so-called "Arab zone" of deep strata. No one then knew the crucial nature of this decision.
Implicit in the stepped-up drilling program were a number of changes in the small world of the Dammam wildcatters. The bunkhouse days were numbered. A boom was in the making; headquarters was "bullish" on the concession. More equipment was coming, and more people would be needed to keep up the pace the company was setting. The rough-rock pier at al-Khobar was widened and pushed further out into the Persian Gulf. Black, oiled roads began to snake out from al-Khobar and the Dammam camp. The Saudi Arabian Government announced a new Bureau of Mines and Public Works.
In August, a month after the decision to drill five more wells at Dammam had been made, the company got clearances from the Saudi Arabian Government for a 70,000-acre reservation on which to build a permanent camp.
Then a string of disappointments clouded the all-out drilling program. The deeper drilling of No. 1 produced no significant results. No. 2, after its exciting test flow in June, dropped from 3,840 barrels a day to 225 late in the year. No. 3 was started in mid-July but never flowed more than 100 barrels a day. No. 4 was a dry hole—it didn't even have a showing of oil. No. 5 was spudded in September 8th but by the end of the year hadn't flowed a barrel of oil. No. 6 lagged behind because of the rush of work on the other wells.
On December 7th the deep-test well—Damman No. 7—was spudded in. As the year turned, the company proceeded with plans for the permanent camp. Despite the poor showings of wells 3, 4, and 5, and the startling drop of flow in 2, an optimistic outlook prevailed. On March 8, 1937, the San Francisco office inquired about the progress on Dammam No. 7, and the cable included this question: "When will married quarters be ready?"
But No. 7 was troublesome. In May it was in bad shape. In July a spurt of good drilling took the well down to 2,440 feet. In early October the hole reached 3,300 feet. Several tests were run. The result: "No oil." Then a few days later the well had its first show of oil.
Again misgivings had begun to grow. San Francisco ordered all work stopped on the shallow wells. Any further work on them would have to be specifically approved.
How would No. 7 turn out? That was the big question during 1937 as month by month the drill bit ground deeper into the earth. But behind this question there was a more profound one that had begun to trouble the executives in San Francisco: should the company pull out of Saudi Arabia altogether? It had already poured millions of dollars down the holes in the desert.
Both questions got a dramatic answer on March 4, 1938. On that day, No. 7 flowed at the rate of 1,585 barrels a day. In three days the flow had risen to a rate of 3,690 barrels a day. San Francisco cautiously included a single word of comment in one cable: "Congratulations."
This time it was no fluke. The test continued, and the rate of flow stayed over 3,000 barrels a day until halted April 20th. Soon thereafter No. 2 and No. 4 were drilled down into the "Arab zone" and both turned out to be good producers in the lower strata. On October 16, 1938, the good news was conveyed by the company to the King: Commercial production had been discovered.
The day of the wildcatters was over. They had done their job and were ready to leave. The first wives to arrive in the Dammam camp had been on the scene for almost a year by the time No. 7 yielded its big flow. The family cottages were growing in number.
By early 1939 the seven wells would become another chapter in the company history. So would the Dammam camp, for it would formally take on the name by which it is now known—Dhahran."
Oil was here to stay for many more decades to come. Setting foot on this soil gave me a sense of great elation of being here, in the first place, and then looking ahead into the future to imagine what destiny lay ahead. I was alone since my wife and 4 year old daughter, Melina, were back in Colombo hoping that their boss man had struck black gold in the sands of Arabia. They would join me in 1982, after the birth of our second daughter Nadia, in September 1981.
Citibank, was known as SAMBA, an acronym for "Saudi American Bank", since the entity was now 51% locally owned and was forced to change its name, together with all other foreign banks in the Kingdom. Today the name has been further changed to SAMBA FINANCIAL HOUSE where the acronym is not used any more. The use of the word "American" in most local company names is quietly being dropped after the saga of 911 and its subsequent events, Gitmo, AQ, OBL et al.
The head office of the bank was housed on the Ground, First and Second Floors of the magnificent Fluor Arabia building on the 20 km AlKhobar-Dammam Motorway, which was still under construction then. Road construction was at its peak at that time. Several local companies, partnered by US, UK and European based construction/consulting organizations were awarded the various highway and roadway contracts. 

Once such local company was General Agencies Corporation (GAC) where many Sri Lankan's were employed. They were supervised by an Italian contractor named T.E.C.N.I.C.S. whise Chief Engineer was a wonderful Filipino gentleman named Simeon Torralba, who later became a very close friend of mine. Sadly ST has passed away now as I have heard from his son who I found on Facebook recently. 

The underpasses and Bridges were constructed by partnership called GAC-SHAIMA who used a large coterie of Indonesian labor to supplement their work force. The amount of construction and development that was taking place all around me was unbelievable. Machinery and technology were of the highest quality and standards available which I had never seen back home in sunny Sri Lanka before.

My younger brother, Firoze Sameer, joined me in Dhahran in 1980, when he was offered a lucrative job as Finance Manager for a subsidiary company of Al Gosaibi Cold Stores, in Dammam. This made my life much more comfortable to have a member of my family by my side.

The first year was tough, getting used to the climate, food, transportation, and driving on the right side. However, the work was heavy and hence kept me focused and occupied. My brother and I also made the pilgrimage of Hajj to Makkah in 1981, all the way by road, doing almost 4,000 km round trip. It was very exciting and adventurous. Fifty Sri Lankan's organized a Bluebird bus and drove the distance up and down.

Beginnings



Life, in Sri Lanka, during the post independence era, since 1948, was a mixed bag of Capitalism, left behind by the Colonial Brits, mixed with Communism, Trotskyism, Socialism, and eventually an Achaar Socio-Democratic Republican system, riddled with corruption, family bandyism, nepotism, and white vans.

As a student, at Royal College Colombo, I always wanted to be a Flight Engineer when I was a grown man. It didn't materialize, sadly, mainly on account of my injured left eye caused by a sporting accident in school when I was just 14.

Math was a great love of mine and it kind of spurned me on to look deeper into the science. Teachers like Mr Rupesinghe (Rupperty), Mr Arasaratnam (Arasa) and Mr Gulasingham (Thosay) contributed greatly to my love of math since my young days. Dad, of course, had his own expectations and wanted me to follow in his footsteps and turn out as a Civil Engineer. All Fathers expect the same, I guess? 

The British Council and USIS libraries were great haunts of mine in the 60s where I spent many hours in study and reading. Here is where I found my first love. Computers! Dad believed it was science fiction. So did many other elders in the island, then. Diving into the deep end, I found Binary. Wow! So fascinating. Two simple digits, 0 & 1, depiciting two states of electric signals, off and on. Amazing! And all we needed was the decimal digit 2 and raise it to powers, starting from 0 upwards.

Eventually, I was thrown into the Banking Sector to seek a profession in 1969, what with the heavy pressure from Dad and also all my Uncles and Aunts. Banking was hip. Fathers would love to give their beautiful daughters to a banker in marriage. Many were the marriage brokers whom I caught taking a quick peep and making inquiries from my bank colleagues during that era, hoping to make a quick commission on my honeymoon. I was lucky not to fall for any of their traps even though the returns could have been economically beneficial.

Computing still haunted me, day in and day out. I spent loads of hours at the two libraries reading and digesting the science in a manner I have never done to anything else in my life before. I could imagine the world running on bits and bytes in the future. I wanted to be an integral part of it. How do I get there? Million Dollar question!

The answer was with IBM in Colombo. Two great gentlemen, Mr G Santhiran GM and Mr Shah Razack of the Rotary Club of Colombo West, who organized a training program for Computer Programmers, bailed me out. They gave me an aptitude test and I passed. Being part of a small group of 25 candidates to study Computer Programming in Assembler Language at IBM was as good as being accepted at Stanford or Harvard for me, then. I was on my way.

How can I forget the BALR 12,0 instruction right at the top of the Assembler code that we were taught to write. Branch and Link Regsiter (BALR) defined the register number containing the subroutine that the program had to branch to when it executed. Ahhh BALR was beautiful.

This is how it looked on the coding sheet:-

BEGIN    CSECT
         BALR   12,0                   /* Load address of SR into   */ 
         USING  BEGIN,12               /* register 12 and tell the  */     
         SR     5,5                    /* assembler to use this as  */        
                                       /* the base address */   

Beautiful, huh? Brings back so many wonderful memories of all the code I wrote thereafter, on punched cards, testing, debugging, and re-running them on the giant IBM System 360/20 that we were given access to at the Central Bank, Insurance Corporation and Peradeniya University, to play on, while learning.

The bank job went on until 1979 in order to keep me from starving, especially after marriage in 1974. The Brit Management were too old fashioned to think of automating the operations of the bank in the early 70's. They continued with their massive hand written ledgers and their NCR Class 32 Accounting Machines making a clatter and din all day long.

Frustration was on the top of my list. I had to get out and find an IT environment, now!

February 1979 made me quit the bank job. Just like that. I had spent 10 long years in that black British hole. Dad and Mum were aghast. So were all my friends and relatives. No one quits a lucrative bank job after 10 long years of service. Only mad men do. OK, so I was mad. Suits me. Makes me happier. 

The local HP agent, Metropolitan Agencies, were establishing their first ever IT products and services operation and the Director, Mahendra Ambani, chose me to head it. What more could I have asked for? It was fun and rewarding, both career wise, mentally, and also financially. They paid me three times as much as the bank did. Huh! Who said banks were the best paymasters? Bull! Life was great.

We wrote programs in HP Enhanced BASIC and also in MONROE Assembler language for a Litton Industries Computer that the company, Metropolitan Agencies Ltd, represented in Sri Lanka. I was beginning to feel the water now. A lovely lass called Shashi, who had just returned from the US exchange program had returned to Sri Lanka and joined us as my Assistant. She was a fast learner and did very well thereafter and was able to take over the tasks and activities  from me when I had to leave. Another chap from Central Bank, Mohamed Faleel, also joined us in managing the administrative stuff that was required to provide the services, mostly to banks and financial institutions.

November 1979, was more or less like D-Day for my Computing career. I had only spent 9 months with HP. The sand dunes of Arabia were calling me. The temptation was irresistible. I had to go and experience it myself.

The Yanks had stepped into Saudi Arabia in the 1930's, on the invitation of the then King AbdulAziz Al Saud, and had been prospecting for oil in Dhahran. The poor Brits, who were the masters of the world then, tried hard to win the deal but lost out when they offered the old King, payment in Indian Rupees based on the British East India Company they had established to manage their colonies in Asia and the Middle East. The wise King opted for US Dollars against the stinking Indian Rupee.

I still remember stepping into the Pakistan Airlines flight on Nov 12, 1979, that took me to Karachi. The next morning I boarded a Saudia flight to Dhahran. The heat and the sand were the first things that hit me in the face when I was picked up at the airport. It was like driving through a sea of brown with small patches of brush growing here and there on either side of the roadway.

Working, as an Analyst/Programmer for SAMBA (Citibank) Technology in Saudi Arabia was the beginning of my entire life's wonderful IT career.

Bits and Bytes, here I come! Nothing could stop me now.